Sunday, August 21, 2016

Trials and Triumphs: The First 6 Months of Living in a New Place

6 Months.
On July 1st, we officially made it to the "6 Month" mark of living in Germany. 
We've often heard that "the first 6 months are the hardest", so getting to that point was long anticipated. 
6 Months. 
So...now that it's passed, what has all of that 6-monthy-ness been to me? 

First, let me be honest: they have been hard. Really, really hard
Don't get me wrong - my life is awesome and I love it. Really, I do! I mean, I am living the dream of soaking up Europe, which is so-dang-cool. If cultural/historical richness were equated to dollars, Germany would be a ba-jillionaire, and we live here, right smack-dab in the middle of all of the greatness that is Germany. 
It. Is. Awesome. 
The adventures we've been going on have been one-of-a-kind, lifetime memories, things we'll look back on for the rest of our lives.
Yeah. 
You should be jealous. 

But, between those adventures lies - guess what? Day-to-day life. We all live it. And in all honesty, day-to-day life has been hard. Transitioning from a busy life filled with well-known friends to a life where you have more than enough time and almost no friends - that's a hard transition. For anyone.
There have been some days I've struggled feeling useless and guilty
I've had more time on my hands and less commitments than I've had since probably 5th grade, but I struggle finding ways to make use of that time in a meaningful way (hence the "useless/guilty" combo). Not to mention feeling guilty that I feel like things are hard, because I have everything, physically that I need, a great family, and a wonderful life. I also have been more socially isolated than I have ever been in my entire life. Not easy. I've been lonelier than I knew I could feel. 
But you know what? I don't want to forget what that feels like, because I've gained a lot from it.

In an attempt to remember these experiences and also to help anyone that may be going through the same situation, I'd like to share what made day-to-day life during these first 6 months hard for me, and what helped me get through it, and what I've learned so far in that process.

So - here's about how it went:
Month 1: January
Arrival, not lonely yet, googley-eyed at all of the newness of the world around me, happy and content, as each day is a new adventure. Bakeries abound. Even going to the grocery store feels adventurous. 

Month 2: February
Newness starts to wear off and I realize how alone I am. I try to communicate with others, but it's cave-man German, and...yeah. It's rainy and cold and dark. 
I am with the kids all day, in a tiny little house.  Normally  I would just seek out friends that we could visit and swap play-dates with, or find indoor playgrounds and activities to do. Except I don't have any friends, and well...there ARE no other children.  Kids age 2 and older are in preschool/kindergarten until about 3 pm. Anytime before then, playgrounds, indoor play-places, libraries, etc, are either closed or deserted ghost-land. 
Coping methods: We get creative at home, doing "school", art projects, a lot of wrestling. The kids are becoming better friends with each other, because all they have is each other, which is actually beautiful to see. Other than that, I am still in denial that I need to make fundamental changes to cope with my life transition. I kind of just look forward to weekends and evenings.
Bridger and Juniper, enjoying each other
Month 3: March
Hard days. The loneliness really hits hard as I make the realization that, although I have made some social connections, nobody that I am friends with actually needs me. Feeling needed is a must for me, and when I realize I am not currently needed by anyone except for my children and husband, I bawl my eyes out. I was so, so down-trodden. 
BUT I have hope for the future. After a month of being turned-down, we've amazingly secured a spot for Bridger in a preschool (starting date: August). We're finally getting ready to move into our permanent apartment for our stay here. I am determined to be more outgoing and make connections in my new neighborhood.
Coping Methods: When it's not raining, I go OUTSIDE, even if it is cold. I reach out to others I am acquainted with, and sacrifice anything to make getting-together possible (travel distance, nap time, etc.). I try to find ways to serve others, and write to friends and family at home, probably a little too much :) 
Month 4: April
I feel excitement about our new apartment (we moved in April 1st) and changes in the weather. Determined to make new friends, I try connecting with people in the park, only to realize that, although it's coming along, my German is still very limited. UGH. Not being able to communicate freely often leaves me feeling like I can't be myself, which is suffocating and restricting. But I am determined not to give up. 
Coping Methods: Now that we're in our own place, I also make a greater effort in inviting other people over to our house. THAT is fun. Birthday parties, people for dinner, etc., get people onto our turf, and let them know that we care. 
Berkley, performing infallible magic at Bridger's birthday party

Month 5: May
Language is finally starting to come around...and summer is around the corner. I make some connections in the area (finally!!) and am excited about it. We go to parks, we enjoy the Rhine, I decide to start training for a 1/2 marathon, but Bridger still has very few friends. He's stopped trying to play with kids at the park, after being shut-down repeatedly. He is resilient, but often plays by himself, which is completely unlike him and heartbreaking.
Coping Methods: I've decided to chuck my pride out the window in social situations. Can't figure out how to say what I want to? Laugh, and break into English if I need to. I've also decided that I HAVE to have friends I can communicate with, without reserve, so I focus more effort on getting together with English-speaking friends. This provides much-needed social relief.
Kids, "helping" mop the floor. Yes, that's dirty mop water
in Juniper's hair...
Month 6: June
Everyone...EVERYONE leaves for vacation. All of my friends. I am left on my own for about 3 weeks. I reach out to people and make a few new friends, but nothing that feels concrete or enriching. My German class has also ended for the summer, which means I don't even have that as a break during the week.
Coping Methods: I stay busy with the kids, who are loving summer and dirt and sand and water and all that comes with it. Yay for fun kids :)
I also plan for and look forward to vacation time.  

I run in the mornings along the Rhine and discover a few, hidden little spots that give me the illusion that I am away from the city. It provides relief. 
Collecting rocks along the Rhine
Month 7: July
Everyone comes back from vacation - RIGHT as we leave for Berlin for a week. Berlin is awesome, but upon arriving home, I realize that I am extremely socially starved. I try starting to write this blog post, but as I write about how difficult the first 6 months "were" for me, I realize that the loneliness that I thought would be gone is still alive and well. I have a good, hard cry, and decide to come back to it again another time. 

But THEN - something magical happened.

I then have a great week. People reach out to ME almost every single day, and each time I have fun, laugh, the kids have a blast, and I realize that these people actually appreciate me. They were all just on vacation for a month. I feel valued. 
**This was a HUGE turning point**
By the end of the week, we were scheduled to go to England for 10 days, and for the first time since we moved, I realize that I am actually going to miss my friends and that I am excited to come home after it was all said and done. 
Also HUGE. 

PLUS. PLUSSSS: I am feeling like my language skills are finally at par. I practiced a lot of German with strangers while everyone was gone. I can communicate with people. I can do it well enough that they often launch into conversation that is way beyond my ability level, and I have to tell them that I am still learning. Their incredulity that I've only lived here for 7 months is a confidence booster. Yay for moving past cave-man talk. 

SO NOW...
...it's been almost 8 months, and am I still adjusting? Absolutely. Are there still difficult days? Of course. Do I still long for deep friendships? Yes. But it's not as frequent or intense. We're getting there, and I've now been here long enough to see the real progress that has been made, both socially, and language-wise, which gives me real, tangible hope that things will continue getting better. 


So - other than what's mentioned above, what was helpful amidst the loneliness? How did I cope? What were things that gave me satisfaction? 

#1: German Chocolate. 
No. Just kidding. Well, maybe not. The chocolate is amazing here. 

BUT REALLY - Here are some things that have helped:

Focus on the Present: During a particularly hard evening, after lots of tears, I got some good advice that I needed to focus on the present. I was so socially hungry that the first thing I did every morning was check my email to see if any of my friends from home had emailed me overnight. When I didn't get anything, I felt crushed...which happened more often than not. 
But, after that, I started to focus my daily communication on people here - emails or texts to friends, invitations, etc. I still wrote to friends from home, but not so much.  

Make Daily and Weekly Plans: Some of my hardest days were days that I had no plans. But if I took just a small amount of effort to plan ahead for the week - even if that plan was "stay home Wednesday morning" - I felt better. But also get out in the community. Look up events. Find new parks. Plan. I also made plans for personal goals or desires I have for myself, physically, spiritually, and intellectually.

Involve Others in My Plans: Make invitations. Get out. Meet people, and make plans RIGHT when you meet them if you feel like you click. Become an inviter, even if you've never been one before. You may have to step out of your comfort zone, like...a LOT...but you'll be better off for it. 

Talk to Anyone I Can: In an effort to immerse myself in "ALL THAT IS GERMANY!! WOOO!" I had a plan that I would do all that I could to make friends with Germans. When I lived in Brazil, I was surrounded by Brazilians, and I developed a deep love for them and their country. I had this vision with Germany, and I was afraid that if I engaged too much with Americans, I would get sucked into an ex-pat bubble and miss out on my German experience.
I realized, however, that I am in very different circumstances here, and that while my efforts to make friends with only Germans were made with good intentions, I needed a mixture of social engagement. So - I stopped being so afraid of American friendships. I now talk to anyone that I hear speaking English at a park, even if it ends up just being small-talk, because that's important to me too. I also introduce my German and American friends, which is fun too. 


Be Patient:
This is a hard one. But you just have to do it. Be patient with the language. With budding friendships. With your kids. Your spouse.
Yourself. 
Transition just takes time, and that would be the case whether we were living in Germany, Timbuktu, or Chicago. So, try to stay positive, focus on future hopes, and make goals to get there. 

Cling to Family: Laugh at your kids. Enjoy the time you have with them. Pray for extra patience. Seriously, my happy, fun kids have kept me sane and happy myself. Even on the mornings I woke up feeling so alone, as soon as they were awake and playing, the whole world brightened up.
Savor time with your spouse. Laugh at the funny stuff, and laugh when you realize that the biscuits were made with baking soda and not baking powder. Be honest with each other and love will increase. 

Life really is beautiful
So - to end: What have I learned? 
You know...I am not sure I can accurately answer that question right now, because I still feel like I am too much in the middle of my situation to see it clearly. And I am still trying to implement the points made above in my own life, as needed. But yeah...Give me a couple of years. 

But I will tell you that I have learned how important my family is to me. My kids are funny, and smart and teach me soooo much. Berkley is...one of a kind. We're having great adventures together, and my family is totally my #1 priority right now. And I have the time for that, which rocks. 
I've learned how invaluable a supportive spouse is, who listens and listens, and listens some more, and then always manages to make me laugh. 
I've also learned empathy for people who are in a new country where they don't speak the language. NEVER again will I avoid saying "hi" to someone that doesn't speak great English, just because it might be awkward. Bad, lame, terrible excuse. Everyone needs someone, even if communication isn't perfect.
I've learned that sometimes, you just really, really need to cry it out. Even if you're not pregnant. And that's okay. And you feel better afterward, with more energy to approach your situation with a plan.  
I've learned that I can do hard things, and I hope that these experiences will prepare me for future challenges. 

So - life is beautiful. And hard. Life can be beautiful and hard at the same time. You can be happy, and also struggle, at the same time. You can be lonely, but also feel joy, at the same time. Those feelings, though sometimes difficult, are what make me a deep-feeling, life-loving person. I just hope that I can continue to make the most of it. 

Sunday, June 26, 2016

Mish-Mash of Fun: German City Parks, The Trodelmarkt, and Adventure #5: Bobbolinos!

Despite all of the crazy rain (and flooding in some areas of Western Europe) SUMMER is finally deciding to show it's face...on some days. BUT, warm weather means that the parks around here are ever-more enticing, and when the clouds clear, we head outside. 

Germany loves it's kids, and it's good to them. With that in mind, Dusseldorf is filled with big, cool parks all over the place.  There are two norms that I've noticed in German parks:

1. Sand.
Lots and lots of sand. Everywhere.
I was super annoyed at first (sand isn't my favorite, unless I am at a legit beach) but I've now realized that it's actually pretty genius. Think about it - if your kid is too tired, or too little to play on the playground equipment, what do they do? They dig in the sand. All you need is a shovel and a bucket and BOOM. Hours of entertainment. And even better? There's often some kind of water feature, and we all know that water + sand + sand toys and buckets leads to extreme creativity. We could literally stay at the park allllll day.



Bridger is silhouetted at the top of
this giant tower
2. Dangerously fantastic playground equipment.  Germans are way more laid back with their "safety standards" of playground suitable equipment than the US, which means they're all the more thrilling. LONG, steep metal sides, 40 yard-long zip lines, super-huge climbing walls, and more. There are also some other things that are just genius, like merry-go-rounds with built in brakes. So cool! 



Another reason to be grateful for the summer sunshine too, because all of a sudden we aren't the only ones there anymore AND I am happy to report that my German is now getting good enough that I can hold a small conversation, being myself, and have gotten the phone numbers of a few moms who live nearby (now I just have to get the courage to call them!). 

It really is a huge step forward for me, socially. I am not gonna lie - there have been some pretty lonely-Emily days, playing literally ALL alone with the kids at the park, or trying to talk with the one or two other parents nearby only to have them utter a few polite words and walk away or turn back to their friends. But I'm finding that communication makes all of the difference - not only in being ABLE to say what I want to say, but feeling confident in myself and how I approach. Happy, full sentences, instead of unsteady and unsure partial sentences, being able to laugh and be myself no matter what I am saying, instead of just worrying and wanting to hide. Just a couple of days ago I started chatting with a woman at the park, and I tried to tell her a story about something that happened last weekend, and judging by the look on her face, I don't think she got it at all, but I just laughed and continued on.  In the end, she totally gave me her mom-number. Woot!

Don't get me wrong though - these kinds of interactions are tough. Most of the time, the toughest part is leading up to it - mustering the courage, wanting to try, swallowing my pride in knowing that I am speaking in completely incomplete, grammatically flawed sentences. But you know what? Whatever. Bring it on. I need friends, and so do my kids, and the kind of friends that I want will be the type of people that look past that...hopefully ;) 

But yes - back to park...
One park we have nearby is this bad-boy: Freizeit Park. 
http://www.yelp.com/biz/freizeitpark-ulenbergstra%C3%9Fe-d%C3%BCsseldorf-2
The photo above is just the tiniest little part of this park. It's huge and it's only a 20 minute walk to it from our new apartment (score!). We go all of the time, and it has this massive, somewhat scary slide.

Freizeit Park also happens to be right across the street from a huge, and I mean HUGE "Trödelmarkt" on Saturday mornings. It literally translates to "Junk Market" - haha! 
http://www.yelp.com/biz/freizeitpark-ulenbergstra%C3%9Fe-d%C3%BCsseldorf-2
It's a cross between 100 yard sales, a farmers market, and a flea market, all in one. Booths (over a 100) are set up by almost every nationality imaginable, and the place is crawling with people. We've found everything from delicious food, cheap produce, a bike, random toys, and curious, talkative Russians there. In a city filled with people who've come from places where going to a large market for stuff was probably a cultural norm, I am not surprised it's so popular. It's a fun, cool, very crowded place. Our first visit there, from start to finish, was Adventure #6. But now we go almost every weekend that we're in town.

But yes. We are grateful, that almost anywhere we go in the city, if we are willing to walk in the right direction for about 15 minutes (or less) we'll find a cool park. 

Back in March, when it was cold and rainy, however, we had to get a little creative in how we would get our wiggles out during the day. After weeks of cold, cold rain, and with many of our official "family outings" having been centered around getting registered with the city, getting driver's licences, and doing other official business, we decided to hit up the fabled "Bobbolino's" indoor playground and see if it was up to all the hype we'd heard about. 
http://www.tevento.de/uploads/52dd902718249-560.jpg

Well, let me tell you. It was. 

You could tell the minute you walked in from the almost deafening screams of glee from the 2-16 year-olds. It was so loud we had to shout at each other, right next to each other to be heard. It was like a punk rock concert venue, but there were no bands, and no singing, no blaring speakers - only screaming children.

I'd mentally committed myself to being an over-sized-4-year-old for the day, since we'd tried to get together with other kids that week and almost everything had fallen through. Even though he didn't realize it, our social little man was feeling pretty socially deprived. So I promised myself I would do whatever he wanted, I would goof off, and try to make him laugh, and make his day as fun as possible. 
We made our way in, and as we looked around, we didn't even know where to start. There were trampolines, giant slides, jungle gyms, inflatable bouncing things, and more, all inside what was basically a giant warehouse. 

Poor Bridger was frozen, speechless. He didn't know where to go. I took his hand and we started running, to what, I am not sure, but I just remember yelling "Let's go! Run, run, run!" and before we knew it we were riding inflatable inner tubes down a giant carpet hill. 

It was fun. Between climbing through a jungle gym maze to get to the top of the tallest slide repeatedly and rescuing Bridger from over-zealous preteens in an inflatable jumping ball-thing, I'd say I did my job. And Berkley and I swapped, of course, since Juniper had other interests. 

We all enjoyed:
A giant volcano slide (climb up, slide down):
A field of trampolines
Cars to drive around or 1 Euro
The toddler area
Big inflatable indescribable monstrosity
A jungle-maze with everything in it you could imagine and two large slides at the top, one fast, one swirly. 




Bridger kept getting swallowed up in this giant inflatable thing that was also covered in crazy pre-teens. He liked it anyways

Auto!! 


This sums up his mental state
during most of the visit

I will say, however, that I could tell that there was some intense over-stimulus going on. Bridger lacked focus, and his eyes were just kind of flitting around. He was having fun, but it was like a crazy, unfocused fun. And he wasn't the only one. At one point I got pegged in the side of the head with a plastic ball from a ball bin when I was NO WHERE near the ball bin...
...but was it worth it? Absolutely. 

The transition to leave was a tough one, but we all survived, and plan to go back another day. Someday...when it's super cold and rainy again. 


Saturday, June 18, 2016

A Letter to Thom Heward on Father's Day


Hey Dad! Happy Father's Day!

Dad, your mouth is almost always open in photos because you're
either laughing or saying something ridiculous. I love that about you.

I just wanted to let you know that I am thinking about you today, on this, the day that we honor and think about our fathers. Here's some things I'd like to thank you for:

Thank you for your laugh - I like your laugh. A lot. And you make sure that I get to hear it often. My favorite of your laughs is when you laugh so hard you wheeze silently, with little squeals of chuckle the end of each breath, only to gasp for more air and squeal again while slapping your knee. I've only ever seen you laugh that hard at Mike and Dave, and at movies with ridiculous slap-stick comedy (like the newest "Get Smart"), which makes me like that laugh even more. 


Thank you for your ingenuity. You can take anything and turn it into, well, anything. Like this picture of you pulling Bridger down the road on a snow shovel:


One of my favorite stories of you is how you managed to lift a giant tree that had fallen onto our house using nothing but Re Bar and an old car jack on metal casters. The house creaked a sigh of relief as you slowly jacked up the tree, and we breathed sighs of relief that no one died in the process. I remember that Berkley asked you to pray about whether or not that was a good idea before you went through with it because he thought "God will tell him that this is a terrible idea and that we are all going to die". But we all felt okay about it, and yes, in the end, it worked. 

Thanks for cheering.  For cheering me on at all of my sporting events over the years. For cheering at camps. For cheering when I graduated from high school and then college. Your voice had a unique way of making it through the din to my ears, and I was ever-encouraged, even if I acted like an embarrassed teenager. Maybe I heard you because you would sometimes cheer when no one else was cheering, and maybe it was because it was a voice I'd heard again and again over the years at campfires at Camp Grizzly, or across our field to tell me to get out of the creek, or that mom wanted me. But I always thought, "There's my dad".

You and I on the Salmon, 2008. There's
that open mouth again :)
Thank you for taking me to the mountains and the rivers when I was young. It was the very beginning of a long love-affair that I have with those places, and that I long for when I am away. Your excitement and joy still echoes in my bones when I think about you when I am there. Can we go back together, sometime soon?

Thanks for being a Boy Scout. You're one of the best I know. You're ever-trustworthy, loyal to the bone, helpful in every way, courteous, so, so kind, cheerful (everyone knows that), thrifty (sometimes to a fault, you penny-finding machine!), brave, clean in heart and mind, and reverent beyond my understanding.  You know a lot of campfire songs, some of the best, and because you taught them to your sons, they live on and on after every single campfire at Camp Grizzly, and "ever more shall be it so", even if the people singing it don't know it's origin. 

Thanks for being strong. Like, muscley-strong. It's genetic, I know, and it's something I've been proud of, being one of "those Hewards", since I can remember. I remember one time, on a very rare occasion, you were wearing shorts (*gasp!*), and so was I. We stood next to each other. I stood next to you and looked down at our legs. They looked almost identical, except for yours were a lot hairier. In response to what I saw, I said "Thanks for the man-legs, Dad."
You paused, then looked at me and said "Well...you'll never roll an ankle?!"
We laughed, but what you said was so, so true. There's been many times I was at the bottom of a pile of people on the Rugby pitch and I would think "Man, I'm sure glad I don't have bird-legs right now". So yes - thank you for being strong. 
You and Juniper, looking at toes

Thanks for loving my kids. They adore you. You're the best Grandpa anyone could ever, ever hope for. 

Thank you for your deep thinking. You, Dad, are a deep thinker. I know that there's some very complex, important knowledge deep down in that brain of yours. I think that deep thinkers like you sometimes have a hard time deciphering those deep, important thoughts into words that the rest of the world can understand, and I want you to know that that is okay. Sometimes there's a reason for that, and in the meantime, keep sharing when you feel it's right, and I'll keep listening. I love that. 

Thank you for your love. Your love of the Lord, your love of people, your love of hard work, your love of a nicely mowed lawn, your love of cats and dogs and chickens, and more. That's love that you've passed onto me. 

I could go on, but I think it suffices to say that I love you, Dad, and I am glad you were born today. Keep up that good work you're doing of being alive!

Your youngest daughter, Emily

Sunday, May 8, 2016

Adventure #4: FRANCE! Castles, Palaces, Roman Ruins and More

(Before I even get started, be warned: this is a long post, and I could have written so much more. At the end are photos that I wanted to share, but couldn't bore you with mid-post. Enjoy!!)

So. Europe. Traveling. It's kinda like the United States except that when you're driving in a car each border means you're in a different, totally cool country (not a new state) which could mean a myriad of different things. Oh, and it has castles and stuff...so really it's not like the United States at all...

...but yes. We can get in a car and drive, and within about 3 hours we can be through 3 different countries. It's coooool!

So, with this in mind, while living here, we plan on getting out and seeing us some awesomeness. We decided to break the non-German ice with our trip to The Netherlands in January, and in early March we decided to take a trip to France. Woohoo!!

This is something I think of when I think of our visit to France...amaaazing bakeries! 
Berkley's parents, Les and Corinne Walker, are serving a mission for our church in Lyon, France. With them living less than 8 hours away by car, it was a gimmie that we were going to visit them! 

We left on a Thursday, mid-morning, and decided to break up the drive a bit by taking a small detour that would take us to a CASTLE in Luxembourg. 







3 hours in. Castle. Boom.
Tiny little Walkers, big huge Castle
This castle, known as the Vianden Castle, was the first real castle I'd ever been in, and I learned a ton! 
First - I don't know what I was thinking castles were for all of these years. Maybe to house princes and princesses?? Stupid Princess Bride and Disney false indoctrination! But castles are FORTRESSES, with a purpose. Meaning their made of rock. Thick. Rock. Walls. Meaning people you don't want to get in can't get in. Meaning it's cold. And dark. And dank. And cold and dark again. But still really, really cool. 
Another main take-away that I got from this trip is that pretty much every Medieval structure you run across (like a castle) was at some point left to fall into ruins or destroyed, then (often) used as a quarry for stone, and then rebuilt sometime in the late 19th or early 20th century because someone was like, "Hey, castles are the coolest! Let's rebuild this thing!!". Yes, a lot of the original stone still remains, architectural records have been preserved, and so the restoration makes it basically how it originally was, but...yeah. Rebuilding, restoration, and renovation are for real when it comes to ancient structures.
 

This particular castle, the Vianden Castle, and was originally built around 1100, then added onto and changed here and there over the next 2-3 hundred years. The additions and changes are no surprise, really. Think about it. When we move into houses that are 60 years old these days, we renovate them, thinking, "man, this place would be a lot better if we just..." and *poof*. Changes. 
But yes, this castle was pretty well used and maintained through the years until about 1800, when it was sold and began being used for scrap building materials. It didn't take long, however, for people to realize their mistake, and restoration of the castle began in the 1850s, progressing slowly, and being halted occasionally by things like WWI. It proved it was a castle indeed, however, when it was successfully defended against in 1944 during a Nazi invasion. Cool! 

FEZZIK! The portcullis!!
Bridger loved the castle. He couldn't get enough of it. Juniper loved the big, open spaces, and running, running, running, with lots of echos. 

After what felt like a fast 3 hour stop we hopped back in, and drove the rest of the way to Lyon, arriving late, but happy at Les and Corinne's home. 


Oh, man, was it ever-so-good to see Les and Corinne. They are as wonderful as ever, and even more. We love them. 







So happy to see Grandma!!
Early the next morning, Corinne sent me to a nearby bakery to get some local Pain au Chocolat - which was amaaaazing - for breakfast. I want you to imagine a rich, buttery, warm melt-in-your-mouth croissant, and then fill it with chocolate. That's what these were, and they were awwwwwesome. Just one ho-hum thing about living in France, I guess! 

We spent a fun morning and lunch with Les and Corinne, and then you know what? Berkley and I left.
 
Without the kids.

Don't worry, it was planned. Some wonderful friends offered to watch them overnight, and we took them up on it!  


From Lyon we drove to Avignon, France. It was a beautiful drive, and so fun with just Berkley and I. 


So, why Avignon? First, it's a cool, walled city, and second, it just happens to be the home of the Palace of the Popes.
By Tognopop - Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=12715172
What? I thought the Popes hung out in Rome at the Vatican, right?
Well, it turns out that Rome was not always the home of the Pope. In the beginning, the Pope actually didn't really have a home-town. He just traveled around a lot. Actually, to save ourselves some time here, I am going to just refer you to this Wikipedia page, where you can read about it if you'd like. But basically, the Popes lived in this palace for about 70 years during the 14th century.  
See that tall tower above me? Palace!

When we arrived, Berkley and I parked outside of the walled part of the city, and walked to the Palace of the Popes. It was a HUGE castley-palace, dominating the city, so even though the streets were narrow and winding, you'd occasionally catch a glimpse of the palace, which we used to orient ourselves.

We didn't use a map...we just walked toward it, and when we did come to it's base, I felt like we were walking through a man-made slot canyon to get to the entrance!

I wish I had more photos of the Papal Palace, but the truth is that they just do no justice to the actual thing! It was massive, and all I could think about was how it was built with no power tools...insane.

Some weirdo leaping through the main courtyard
After our visit to the palace, we walked to the place we'd booked through Air BNB and would be staying for the night. It was a tiny little apartment (we didn't need much) in a small alley way with good food nearby. It was kind of surreal to be there, imagining the many hundreds of years that people had trod on the very streets and alleyways we were treading on, how life inside a walled city meant a certain amount of safety, but on the other hand, an unavoidable crowded life, and how it was unique and beautiful in its own way. We had Jean Pierre, our host, snap a photo for us before he took off.

We decided to take a walk through the city at night, and afterwards ate at a small, very French little diner right by where we stayed. It will be a fun memory forever, and I couldn't have enjoyed Berkley's company more. 

Saturday morning we 8 o'clock (*gasp!*) then hopped in our car and headed to Orange, France, where we were excited to see one of the most intact Roman Amphitheaters in the world. 

IT. WAS. SOOOOCOOOOOOL. 
Tiny Berkley in the middle of the massive Ancient Amphitheater of Orange

Really, indescribable. As we walked from where we had parked to where the amphitheater was, we just saw this massive, massive wall. A wall that had been there since 25 AD. I didn't realize it when I first saw it, but it was the actual wall of the amphitheater, from the outside. 

The Orange amphitheater was originally constructed around 25 or 50 AD. It was inexplicably massive, and could seat up to 10,000 people, like this:
By Culturespaces / Les chorégies - http://www.theatre-antique.com/, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3148847

After i'ts completion, it was used as a theatrical stage for a long time - until about 390 AD - at which time Christianity had become the official religion of the Roman Empire.  Basically, with the authorities found out what kind of plays were being performed there (which had become pretty raunchy) they shut it down. 30 years later it was pillaged by the Visigoths and the roof (which seems unbelievable to have ever even existed) was burned, and it was stripped of most of it's precious stone, such as the marble that originally covered the wall behind the stage. After that it was used as refuge during medieval wars, and at one point was even turned into it's own neighborhood, constructed of many layers with official STREETS running through it. When restoration officially began in the late 1700's it took years to "evict" all of the inhabitants and clean the amphitheater out. 
Today, the wall and its columns seen in the photo are still original. While a lot was pillaged, there was a ton of stuff that was found during the archaeological excavation that went on during the restoration, including the big chucks of Caesar's statue, which has now been restored and placed back in it's home in the wall. (See Caesar? He's so happy he's waving to you!)
Here's a little video of us inside. The acoustics were unbelievable. You could just stand down in the center of the stage (which was wider than a football field is wide) and speak (not yell) in a loud, clear voice and easily be heard from the top. Unfortunately it was windy so you can't hear me, but I was probably saying stupid stuff anyways so I am not sorry :)

Up behind the many, many steps is a large hallway where people could take breaks from the show, the heat, the crowd, etc. It was cool to walk through hallways I know many Romans and people of that ancient time also walked. It was just such a cool, surreal place to be!
While in Orange we also visited a cool museum where we saw more stuff from the original amphitheater, walked to the Roman's Triumphal Arch (an arch erected in cities that they had officially conquered) and had a lunch where communication was extremely difficult, but the food was delicious nonetheless. 

On our drive back to Lyon, we decided to stop in a smaller city called Vienne and climbed to the top of the tallest hill. this is what we found:

Europe is amazing.

Before we knew it, we were back in Lyon! The kids were excited to see us, and we were all excited to be back together with Les and Corinne. They fed us delicious food, of course, and we played on the living room floor with the new Legos. 

On Sunday we attended church in the morning. Church in French is even more confusing than church in German, but the people are just as nice :) After church, lunch, and naps we headed out to the other side of Lyon to find yet another Roman amphitheater (not as big, and no back wall, but still amazing), and a huge Basilica. The kids frolicked (you know...just frolicking in Roman ruins...no big deal) we climbed around, and Bridger decided that he needed to perform.


Juni and Grandpa Les
Monday we spent the morning with Les and Corinne around another really cool part of Lyon, where we found a cool statue, lots of unique shops, another incredible bakery, and a tasty lunch. 
Can I just pause here on the travel log, and say how much I love Les and Corinne and how BLESSED we are to have been able to visit them? They took the kids to the aquarium where they bought lunch and a souvenir, they took them to the coolest Carousel I've ever seen (Jules Verne themed), Corinne spoiled me with chocolate chip cookies, real brown sugar, Maple Syrup, refried beans and more. 
They played with the kids on the floor, painted with them, sang with them, inspired, them, and made them laugh. I couldn't ask for more fun, or more loving in-laws. They are good friends, amazing parents and the best kind of grandparents. Bridger and Juniper adore them, and we love, love, LOVED our visit.



And then...of course...we had to say goodbye. We broke up the drive home by staying the night with some good friends that live near Nancy, France (which I had to call Nancy, Francy, of course). They gave me a welcomed reality check by laughing at me when I said I hadn't made many friends yet ("of COURSE you haven't! You've only lived here for 2 months!!) and their home was warm and full of love. Thank you Anthony and Delphine!

Enjoying the courtyard of a random, locked-up castle
in the middle of nowhere! 
We also learned the valuable lesson that maybe it's not the best idea to just drive to a random castle found on the GPS in the middle of Germany. We found it (eventually) and while it was cool, it was under private ownership, meaning it was all locked up, there was no food anywhere (we survived on the last of our peanut butter and bread) and the town felt abandoned.  Oh well! 

Alright - so, if you managed to read this to the end, good for you. You earn a gold star. And thanks for bearing with me! There's so much more I left out, but if you'd like, you can scroll through some photos below. Basically, France is amazing. End of story :) 

Vianden Castle
Cool armour, and a chest made by an apprentice of a locksmith to show
that he was ready to start his craft on his own. So cool! 

Kids, playing in an oven

Part of the kitchen
Berkley and Bridger in the chapel, looking down through a large opening into the kitchen below (strategically placed for warmth)Only the wealthy could attend church here - everyone else had to be down hang out in the kitchen below!
Chain mail on an old mannequin they tried to make manly by gluing hair onto the chin...nailed it. 
Kitchen!!

Happy Crew!



A bedroom. The bed behind me would sleep two people who slept sitting up. CREEPY. 
Avignon and the Palace of the Popes
Walking the streets of Avignon

The slot canyon!

Giant Banquet Hall

The Pope's bedroom

Photo of when the palace was used as army barracks

Ornately carved doorway. The heads of everyone was knocked off during the French Revolution...except for the people depicted to be burning in hell...

Kids riding their bikes in circles in a church's courtyard. There's not a lot of room to play in a walled city! 

Orange and the Ancient Roman Amphitheater

A part of the amphitheater from the outside
Hey there, Caesar! 


 Some of the hallways up behind the main seating area

Naaaarrow little streets!

 The Triumphal Arch, and us, feeling triumphant

Some of the original marble decor from the amphitheater wall

Time in Lyon
Look, Grandpa!!

Fascinating statue of John the Baptist baptizing Christ

Windows and Light inside of the church

The crew in the street

Such a beautiful city! 
On the Jules Verne Carousel with Grandma



Juni and Bridger sitting on chunks of old columns



Aren't they the best?

Bet you can't guess who this is supposed to be??